![]() ![]() This is NOT your base timing, but the current timing of the engine.Ħ) Attached to the firewall on the passenger side is a diagnostics box. At this point it should be just a bit to the left of the 3, probably around 6* or so. There's a notch on the crank pulley that will show up. Pull the trigger on the timing gun and it'll start flashing. On the top of the crank pulley you should have a plate that's labeled 15 10 3 0. Verify you're idling around 650 RPM (I was at 625).ĥ) Aim the timing gun at the crank pulley. Make sure engine is up to normal operating temperature/mode. Turn off all draws (AC, fan, radio, lights, etc). It *SHOULD* be the one closest to you if properly routed.ģ) Battery leads for the timing gun go on the battery.Ĥ) Start the engine. It'll look like this Harbor Freight one: Xenon Timing LightĢ) The inductive pickup clips around/onto the #1 spark plug wire. You don't need an advance on the light for the Cruiser. From what I've read, half the people with lights with advances on them hate the advance because if it's misadjusted it throws everything off. I would *NOT* get a light with an advance on it, that is adjustable, or anything fancy. Sorry for the questions, I just have no clue how to use this thing.ġ) Buy a timing light. On the Path I can see the pointy tab on the engine, but I don't see anything on the crank pulley. I also used it on my 95 Nissan Pathfinder, and I also hooked the spark plug attacment to plug number 1. I assume that the timing on the plow truck is dead on accurate as the truck on has 37,000 miles on it and it is totally stock. I see the timing mark on the crank pulley with the light on it, and that line matches up with a line on a tab mounted to the engine. I used it on the truck, and I hooked the spark plug wire clip to cyl #1. ![]() The light has a pos and neg battery connection, and a spark plug wire clip. I was playing around with it on my 79 Toyota 4x4 plow truck. I have never set the timing on any vehicle ever before, so I have no clue how to use this thing. Geeze, I should have just looked it up, I'm such an idiot.A friend gave me a new (new in box Craftsman, but the item is at least 25 years old or so.) inductive timing light. MSD makes some great products for that sole purpose.Įvery motor/cam/compression/CI and all other factors concerned means every motor will have a different initial so to say what is the best for you is impossible on a forum in text writing. What I do know is a blower motor is going to need some kind of advance retard vs. Whether this holds true on a blower motor I'm not sure and would never claim to know for sure. Or damn close to it, personally I would go back just a touch more like a degree or two. Lock the dizzy hold down, check the timing and that's your initial. That's what you don't want, when you find the point where the starter starts to strain, back the timing off a little until the starter spins the motor over easily again. Most people like to say their motor is just that race when the starter strains against too much initial, they're idiots. Keep doing this advancing until the starter strains, you've heard it before the rhythmic straining of the starter. Crank it but don't start it, if it starts fine just shut it back down. Shut it down and turn the dizzy counter clockwise a little bringing in more initial advance. Then what you do is set the distributor somewhere where it runs at low idle. You don't want it to move at all from it's starting point. Wire it, install some bitchin' spring, take them out and use rubber bands whatever. You kind of need the weight assembly locked by whatever means. Actually it was mikeorwan that got it from driveWFO I think, so they should get the credit. :no:Ĭlick to expand.Someone sent me a very good read one time about initial advance and how to find it, or at least get it close. And a welder isn't a distributor tuning tool contrary to some people's beliefs. There's a lot more that goes into adjusting your timing than just setting the total advance. Oh, yeah, disconnect vacuum advance and plug the line/port whichever before you start. The reason you want so much throttle is to be sure ALL of the centrifugal advance is in. If you don't have a friend holding the throttle you have go back and forth with your right hand holding the throttle open, changing back to your light to adjust a little, back to the throttle, check it and repeat as necessary until the line is at the zero mark on the timing tab. Look at where your dial is on your light or read the number off a digital light. ![]() I'll post it anyway even though it's a re-hash almost.Įasier to have friend with you, hold the throttle at like 4000, adjust the dial or up down buttons until the balancer line lines up with the zero mark on the timing tab. Geeze, you guys are fast, I wrote this and and checked before I posted it. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |